Blowing & Basting
Once the felt hood has been basted, it is strengthened by two unique, custom apparti - the "rollettina" and the "gheisa" - which lock the hair fibres together.
The hood is then sent to the first of three quality checks carried out on backlit table in a dark room.
Prefulling & Steeping
Once the felt hood has been basted, it needs to be strengthened using two special machines, the "rollettina" and the "gheisa", that help the fibres lock together.
At this point the hood undergoes the first of three quality checks: the one known as inspection, which is carried out on a backlit table in a dark room.
Fulling & Assembly
Fulling is the process of shrinking the felt hoods using three specific machines which utilize hot water and fine-tuned, mechanical movement.
Post-fulling, the felts are moved to the "white warehouse" for assembly, ordered and sorted according to individual quality
Dyeing & Shrinking
Dying the felts requires machines set at atmospheric pressure and a tight boiling point. The hoods are left to soak for 90-240 minutes, depending on the weight of the felt.
After they have been dyed, the dimensions of the hood are further reduced by means of a unique shrinking process completed by experienced, highly skilled Borsalino craftsmen.
Stiffening & Shaping
At this fundamental stage the conical, rigid hood is transformed into a capeline. Using a stiffening machine, the felt weave is broken to create the initial division between crown and brim.
Next, the felt is ready for Scotti steam shaping where it is placed in a machine that makes use of atmospheric pressure and steam to press down on the capeline with an aluminum block. Upon emerging from the shaping, the felt now has a well-defined crown and, most importantly, a size.
Pumicing & Inspection
Following the initial shaping, the surface of the felt capeline is shaved by hand using special pumice papers and fire, creating a smooth felt to sight and touch.
The capeline is now shaped a second time with specific hat shaped blocks and presses and sent to the second thorough inspection to ensure craft quality.
Flanging & Finishing
Passing the second quality check leads to flanging where the hat brim is trimmed and curled using a unique machine.
At the finishing step of production, accessories are attached to the surface of the hat: the lining, sweatband, ribbon, and bow. The final touch - the distinctive Borsalino signature is hot stamped in gold leaf, a symbol of quality Italian craftsmanship recognized worldwide.